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Tour
Scotland, Loch Tummel
Loch Tummel
has one of the outstanding beauty spots in all of Scotland. The
the Queen’s View is where a panorama of lake and mountain
scenery stretches westwards as far as the Glen Coe hills, on clear
days.
There is just
a little doubt about which Queen is meant. Victoria certainly
visited it in 1866, when travelling privately - “incognita”
as she so correctly puts it. Her Journal for Wednesday 3rd October
tells of a long drive she took from Dunkeld. by Dalguise and Aberfeldy
to Kenmore, in time for lunch by Loch Tay at 1:30 p.m. They went
on by Fortingall and past Coshieville, up the very steep hill,
and on to “a dreary wild moor, passing below Schiehallion
one of the high hills - and at the summit of the road came to
a small loch, called Ceannairdiche. Soon after this we turned
down the hill again into woods and came to Tummel Bridge, where
we changed horses. Here were a few, but very few people who I
think from what Brown and Grant said recognised us, but behaved
extremely well, and did not come near. This was at twenty minutes
to four. We then turned as it were homewards, but had to make
a good long circuit, and drove along the side of Loch Tummel,
high above the loch, through birch wood, which grows along the
hills much the same as about Birkhall. It is only three miles
long. Here it was again very clear and bright. At the end of the
loch, on a highish point called after me ‘The Queen’s
View’ - though I had not been there in 1844 - we got out
and took tea. But this was a long and unsuccessful business; the
fire would not burn, and the kettle would not boil. At length
Brown ran off to a cottage and returned after some little while
with a can full of hot water, but it was no longer boiling when
it arrived, and the tea was not good. Then all had to be packed,
and it made us very late. It was fast growing dark. We passed
Alleine (now Queen’s View Hotel). . . and then at about
half past six, changed horses at the Bridge of Garry near, or
rather in the midst of, the Pass of Killiecrankie; but from the
lateness of the hour and the dullness of the evening - for it
was raining we could see hardly anything.
“We
went through Pitlochry, where we were recognised, but got through
quietly enough, and reached Ballinluig, where the Duchess’s
horses were put on, at a little before half-past seven. Here the
lamps were lit, and the good people had put two candles in each
window! They offered to bring ‘Athole Brose’ which
we however declined. The people pressed round the carriage, and
one man brought out a bull’s-eye lantern which he turned
on me. But Brown..,” Needless to say, John Brown intervened,
and protected the Queen from the vulgar people of Ballinluig.
If the vantage point was known as “Queen’s View”
before Victoria’s visit, perhaps it had been admired by
Mary Queen of Scots. She had certainly visited the Atholl area
on great hunting expeditions, and there are various legends about
harps and harp-strings
which, though perhaps not totally authentic, might still have
a basis of truth. In any case, the Queen’s view well deserves
its regal title.
Nowadays
the Forestry Commission have an information centre there, where
you can find out all you want to know about the work of the Commission.
500 yards along the road is a picnic area, which affords a fascinating
glimpse of village life as it must have,heen in the eighteenth
or seventeenth centuries. Some ruined houses and byres have been
unearthed, partially built up, and given turf roofs.
Return
To Lochs and Rivers
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