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Tour Abernethy
The
name Abernethy is an extremely potent name in Scottish history.
Here was an ancient Pictish capital, and then an ecclesiastical
metropolis of the Celtic Church of the Culdees, before St Andrews,
conveniently near to Scone, the one-time Royal centre of government
only 8 miles away across the River Tay, as the crow flies. Indeed
even before that, Abernethy was important, with a Pictish and
also Roman fort, port and baths, at Carpow just to the north.
Now
little more than a village, Abernethy stands at the foot of its
own steeply-climbing Ochils glen, right on the Fife border, looking
out across the level carse to the junction of Earn and Tay rivers,
just where the latter begins to widen to an estuary, 6 miles south-east
of Perth. It is perhaps now most famous for its Celtic Round Tower,
one of the only two remaining in Scotland, the second being at
Brechin. These are tall, slender, tapering columns, free-standing
and not part of church buildings, although sited in later kirkyards.
The Abernethy Tower dates probably from the 9th or 10th century,
with 11th century alterations. It is 72 feet high and only 8 feet
in interior diameter, with walls 3 1/2 feet thick. There were
six stages of timber flooring, and door and windows are in the
Irish style. The modern clock is somewhat incongruous. These towers
served the Celtic clergy as steeples, watch-towers against Viking
invaders and others, and refuges. There are still 76 of them standing
in Ireland.
With
its Tower, Church and Churchyard, new Museum, winding Glen walks,
Mercat Cross and Traditional Houses, Abernethy village has much
to show the visitor, in addition to its resounding history--although
scarcely resounding perhaps was the sorry day when the great King
Malcolm Canmore did homage to William the Conqueror, in 1072,
at Abernethy, as evidently the only way to get the Norman and
his invading army to go home. It was Malcolm's English Queen Margaret,
later sanctified by grateful Rome, who instituted the pro-Romish
movement in Scotland which was to oust the Celtic Church not only
from Abernethy but from all the land.
Abernethy
was made a burgh of barony in 1476, under the famous Archibald
Bell-the-Cat Douglas, Earl of Angus; and his present-day descendant,
the Duke of Hamilton, bears the style of Lord Abernethy amongst
his many subsidiary titles. The Douglases had inherited Abernethy
by marriage with the heiress of the MacDuff line of Hereditary
Abbots of Abernethy, who became secularised as the de Abernethy
family. To them, as the second main stem of the great MacDuff
house, had passed the right of crowning the Scots monarchs, after
the end of the senior stem, Earls of Fife--hence the Duke of Hamilton's
presenting to the present Queen her Scottish crown at St. Giles
Cathedral in 1953, at that significant ceremony.
About
two miles east of the village, and actually over the Fife border
above Newburgh, are the remains of MacDuff's Cross, where once
all man-slayers to within the 9th degree of consanguinity with
the Earls of Fife or Lords Abernethy, could claim sanctuary and
gain remission of penalty other than the payment of a fixed indemnity
to the victim's family, a most useful inheritance in otherwise
lawless days.
To
the other side of the village, high on a shoulder of Castle Law
hill to the south-west, is the site of a famous Scots hill-fort,
massively built of dry-stone walling with binding timber beaming,
a type of construction noted by Julius Caesar. These forts were
roughly contemporary with the Roman Invasions. It was in 80 AD
that the celebrated Agricola "opened up new nations, for
the territory of tribes as far as the estuary named Tanous (Tay)
was ravaged", according to the Consul's son-in-law Tacitus.
The Carpow Roman fort's site, unlike the Pictish one, is on low
ground near the Tay. Nearby is Carpow House, and the scanty remains
of old Capow. Here was the ancient seat of the Lords of Abernethy.
Abernethy
is ideally located for easy trips to the St Andrews, Dunfermline,
Culross, Perth, Edinburgh, Falkland Palace, and all of historic
Fife and Perthshire.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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To A Few Favorite Scottish Places
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