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The
Western Isles of Scotland
The
Hebrides, or Western Isles, are a group of islarfds off the west
coast of Scotland. They are situated between 55° 35’
and 58° 30’ N. and 5° 26’ and 8° 40’
W. Formerly the term was held to embrace not only all the islands
off the Scottish western coast, including the islands in the Firth
of Clyde, but also the peninsula of Kintyre, the Isle of Man and
the Isle of Rathlin, off the coast of Antrim. They have been broadly
classified into the Outer Hebrides and the Inner Hebrides, the
Minch and Little Minch dividing the one group from the other.
Geologically, they have also been differentiated as the Gneiss
Islands and the Trap Islands. The Outer Hebrides being almost
entirely composed of gneiss the epithet suitably serves them,
but, strictly speaking, only the more northerly of the Inner Hebrides
may be distinguished as Trap Islands.
The chief islands of the Outer Hebrides are Lewis-with-Harris
(or Long Island), North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Barra, the
Shiants, St Kilda and the Flannan. Isles, or Seven Hunters, an
uninhabited group, about 20 m. North West of Gallon Head in Lewis.
Of these the Lewis portion of Long Island, the Shiants and the
Flannan belong to the county of Ross and Cromarty, and the remainder
to Inverness-shire. The total length of this group, from Barra
Head to the Butt of Lewis, is 130 miles, the breadth varying from
less than 1 mile to 30 miles.
The
Inner Hebrides are much more scattered and principally include
Skye, Small Isles (Canna, Sanday, Rum, Eigg and Muck), Coil, Tyree,
Lismore, Mull, Ulva, Staffa, Iona, Kerrera, the Slate Islands
(Seil, Easdale, Luing, Shuna, Torsay), Colonsay, Oronsay, Scarba,
Jura, Islay and Gigha. Of these Skye and Small Isles belonged
to Inverness-shire, and the rest to Argyllshire.
Of the total
area of 1,800,000 acres, or 2812 sq. miles, only one-ninth is
cultivated, most of the surface being moorland and mountain. The
annual rainfall, particularly in the Inner Hebrides, is heavy
(42-6 in. at Stornoway) but the temperature is high, averaging
for the year 47° F. Potatoes and turnips are the only root
crops that succeed, and barley and oats are grown in some of the
islands. Sheep-farming and cattle-raising are carried on very
generally, and, with the fisheries, provide the main occupation
of the inhabitants, though they profit not a little from the tourists
who flock to many of the islands throughout the summer.
The principal
industries include distilling, slate-quarrying and the manufacture
of tweeds, tartans and other woollens. There are extensive deer
forests in Lewis-with Harris, Skye, Mull and Jura. On many of
the islands there are prehistoric remains and antiquities within
the Christian period. The more populous islands are in regular
communication with certain points of the mainland by means of
steamers fromGlasgow, Oban and Mallaig. The United Free Church
has a strong hold on the poeple, but in a few of the islands the
Roman Catholics have a great following. In the larger inhabited
islands board schools have been established. The islands unite
with the regions to which they belong in returning members to
parliament.
History
The
Hebrides are mentioned by Pliny under that of Hebudes, the modern
spelling having, it is said. originated in a misprint. By the
Norwegians they were called Sudreyj’ar or Southern Islands.
The Latinized form was Sodorenses, preserved to modern times in
the title of the bishop of Sodor and Man. The original inhabitants
seem to have been of the same Celtic race as those settled on
the mainland. In the 6th century Scandinavian hordes poured in
with their northern idolatry and lust of plunder, but in time
they adopted the language and faith of the islanders. Mention
is made of incursions of the vikings as early as 793, but the
principal immigration took place towards the end of the 9th century
in the early part of the reign of Harald Fairhair, king of Norway,
and consisted of persons driven to the Hebrides, as well as to
Orkney and Shetland, to escape from his tyrannous rule.
Soon afterwards
they began to make incursions against their mother-country, and
on this account Harald fitted out an expedition against them,
and placed Orkney, Shetland, the Hebrides and the Isle of Man
under Norwegian government. The chief seat of the Norwegian sovereignty
was Colonsay. About the year 1095 Godred Crovan, king of Dublin,
Man and the Hebrides, died in Islay. His third son, Olaf, succeeded
to the government about 1103, and the daughter of Olaf was married
to Somerled, who became the founder of the dynasty known as Lords
of the Isles. Many efforts were made by the Scottish monarchs
to displace the Norwegians. Alexander II. led a fleet and army
to the shores of Argyllshire in 1249, but he died on the island
of Kerrera. On the other hand, Haakon IV., king of Norway, at
once to restrain the independence of his jarls and to keep in
check the ambition of the Scottish kings, set sail in 1263 on
a great expedition, which, however, ended disastrously at Largs.
The son of
Haakon, concluded in 1266 a peace with the Scots, renouncing all
claim to the Hebrides and other islands except Orkney and Shetland,
and Alexander III. agreed to give him a sum of 4000 merks in four
yearly payments. It was also stipulated that Margaret, daughter
of Alexander, should be betrothed to Eric, the son of Magnus,
whom she married in 1281. She died two years later, leaving an
only daughter afterwards known as the Maid of Norway.
The race of
Somerled continued to rule the islands, and from a younger son
of the same potentate sprang the lords of Lorne, who took the
patronymic of Macdougall. John Macdonald of Islay, who died about
1386, was the first to adopt the title of Lord of the Isles. He
was one of the most potent of the island princes, and was married
to a daughter of the earl of Strathearn afterwards Robert II.
Flis son, Donald of the Isles, was memorable for his rebellion
in support of his claim to the earldom of Ross, in which, however,
he was unsuccessful. Alexander, son of Donald, resumed the hereditary
warfare against the Scottish crown; and in 5462 a treaty was concluded
between Alexander’s son and successor John and Edward IV.
of England, by which John, his son John, and his cousin Donald
Balloch, became bound
to assist King Edward and James, earl of Douglas, in subduing
the kingdom of Scotland. The alliance seems to have led to no
active operations.
In the reign
of James V. another John of Islay resumed the title of Lord of
the Isles, but was compelled to surrender the dignity. The glory
of the lordship of the isles, the insular sovereignty, had departed.
From the time of Bruce the Campbells had been gaining the ascendancy
in Argyll. The Macleans, Macnaughtons, Maclachlans, Lamonts, and
other ancient races had sunk before this favoured family. The
lordship of Lorne was wrested from the Macdougalls by Robert Bruce,
and their extensive possessions, with Dunstaffnage Castle, bestowed
on the king’s relative, Stewart, and his descendants, afterwards
lords of Lorne. The Macdonalds of Sleat, the direct representatives
of Somerled, though driven from Islay and deprived of supreme
power by James V., still kept a sort of insular state in Skye.
There were
also the Macdonalds of Clanranald and Glengarry (descendants of
Somerled), with the powerful houses of Macleod of Dunvegan and
Macleod of Harris, McNeill of Barra and Maclean of Mull. Sanguinary
feuds continued throughout the 16th and 17th centuries among these
rival clans and their dependent tribes, and the turbulent spirit
was not subdued till a comparatively recent period. James VI.
made an abortive endeavour to colonize Lewis. William III. and
Queen Anne attempted to subsidize the chiefs in order to preserve
tranquillity, but the wars of Montrose and Dundee, and the Jacobite
insurrections of 1715 and 1745, showed how futile were all such
efforts.
It was not
till 1748, when a decisive blow was struck at the power of the
chiefs by the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, and the appointment
of sheriffs in the different districts, that the arts of peace
and social improvement made way in these remote regions. The change
was great, and at first not unmixed with evil. A new system of
management and high rents were imposed, in consequence of which
numbers of the tacksmen, or large tenants, emigrated to North
America.
The exodus
continued for many years. Sheep-farming on a large scale was next
introduced, and the crofters were thrust into villages or barren
corners of the land. The result was that, despite the numbers
who entered the army or emigrated to Canada, the standard of civilization
sank lower, and the population multiplied in the islands. The
people came to subsist almost entirely on potatoes and herrings;
and in 1846, when the potato blight began its ravages, nearly
universal destitution ensued, embracing, over the islands generally,
70% of the inhabitants. Temporary relief was administered in the
shape of employment on roads and other works; and an emigration
fund being raised, from 4000 to 5000 of the people in the most
crowded districts were removed to Australia. Matters, however,
were not really mended, and in 1884 a royal commission reported
upon the condition of the crofters of the islands and mainland.
As a result of their inquiry the Crofters’ Holdings Act
was passed ill 1886, and in the course of a few years some improvement
was evident and has since been sustained.
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