Lochaber

Lochaber: A
Historical Guide

The Well of the Heads

Loch Na H-Achlaise and Black Mount, Lochaber, Scotland Art Photographic Poster Print by Iain Sarjeant, 32x24

Some of the most notable events to take place in the history of Glengarry and Lochaber were the Keppoch Murders.  Although committed as long ago as 1663, they are still recalled when days of old are discussed in the area. At the mouth of Glen Roy at Roy Bridge, a road leads down by the west bank of the River Roy towards the River Spean. This road leads to Keppoch House, the old home of the MacDonalds of Keppoch. The first Keppoch House, or castle, which was built by the sixth chief of the clan at the beginning of the 16th century, was situated a short distance from the present house. History relates that after the murders, Keppoch Castle was pulled down by clansmen in horror at the deeds committed within its walls, and no stone of it remains on the site.

The story relates to the time of the death of Donald Glass, 11th chief of Keppoch, who had fought under Montrose at Inverlochy. His son Alexander was a minor and during the period when Alexander and his brother Ranald were completing their education in Rome, the clan
was governed by their uncle, Alasdair Buidhe.  Shortly after the two lads returned home, Alexander gave a banquet to celebrate his accession to the chieftaincy of the clan. Among the guests were a father and his six sons of a branch of the Keppoch MacDonalds known as the Sioll Dughaill, who secretly coveted the chieftaincy and were encouraged in their ambition by some discontented members of the clan.

By previous arrangement, the Sioll Dughaill picked a quarrel during the celebrations. In the fight, Alexander and his brother were murdered, but it was announced that it had been an accident. Alasdair Buidhe, the uncle who had ruled during the absence of the two
young lads, was suspected for some time of being involved, but no proof was ever brought against him.
Learning of the tragedy, lain Lom, the Keppoch bard, headed for Invergarry and begged the Glengarry chief to take revenge against the killing of his kinsmen. Glengarry refused to give the bard help, believing that the deaths could have been accidental.

In his bid for revenge, lain Lom made for Skye, to seek help from Sir James MacDonald of Sleat. At first Sir James refused to help but. after several visits by lain Lom. he agreed to avenge the murders, which had taken place two years before. He sent fifty men to the mainland, where they were met and guided by the bard to Inverlair, the home of the murderers. They found Inverlair heavily barricaded, but the defences were soon broken down and the occupants slain. lain Lom cut off their heads and had the bodies buried in a knoll near the present Inverlair Lodge. He made a rope of heather and threaded it through the seven heads. He slung his burden over his shoulders and set out for Invergarry to present his trophies to the chief who had refused his help. When passing the side of Loch Oich, he washed the heads in a well close to the shore, which ever since has been known as Tobar nan Ceann, the Well of the Heads.

After displaying the heads to Glengarry, Iain Lom sent them to Sir james MacDonald of Sleat as evidence that justice had been carried out.  Sometimes later he composed an oran mor (lament) called Mort na Ceapaich (Death of Keppoch), which is still sung.

In 1812 a monument to commemorate the Keppoch murders was erected, and during the last century the grave at Inverlair was opened; inside were the seven headless skeletons.