Lochs are numerous in the Dunkeld district, but when the Lochs, pure and simple, are mentioned, all understand that those referred to are the three at the entrance to the Stormont valley, connected with half-a-dozen others, lying in the route to Blairgowrie.

The Loch o’ the Lowes, Craiglush and Butterstone are all romantically beautiful, and within easy walking distance of Dunkeld. The first-named is the largest and nearest, barely two miles off. It can be reached either by highway or by charming by-ways. A favourite one begins by climbing the steep street in Dunkeld termed by residents The Brae. ( Map ) On the last house to the right, but a little way off and turned sideways, is the quaint Sundial dated 1757, with the names of John Ballantyne and Jaunet Stewart; the experience of the former in the ‘45 has already been narrated in Chapter IX.

Continuing the steep ascent, there is a very fine view, almost Continental in aspect, looking back on the street, with the houses unequal in height as they ascend, the rest of Dunkeld clustering in the hollow, hills beyond and peeps of the noble bridge spanning the Tay. A few large houses are built on the plateau at the top, and the road runs along by the Craig Wood. A small walled enclosure in a field to the right often excites comment. This is the site of an old chapel, once called the Red Chapel, dedicated to St. Jerome and built for the use of the inhabitants of Fungarth, who long retained the nickname of the "Funnart Jorums." If one looks closely a track running up the side of the wood leading towards Fungarth can still be discerned. Near this, on either side of the road are two grassy patches of ground, sole relics of the old common, where drovers rested their sheep and cattle on the way to market, this being originally a high road to Dunkeld. A few old trees on the right gave the name of "The big trees" to the spot, but the largest fell many years ago.

The road to the Lowes here branches to the left, passing Haughend Farm on the right and skirts the Craig Wood and Caigrankie by one of the most beautiful walks in a beautiful neighbourhood. It should be seen in the months of May and June, when the misty, smoky blue of the wild hyacinth in its masses forms a never-to-be-forgotten sight. Craigrankie and Newtyle Hill rise to the right, the former covered with bracken and blaeberry, the latter lately planted, chiefly with larch. The views from the top of these hills are very pretty, including the Stormont valley and lochs, the Sidlaws and Strathmore, the Dunkeld valley, river and bridge, Strathbraan, and on a clear evening the houses and chimney stalks of Perth stand out quite plainly. This climb up Craigrankie past heather clumps, blaeberry knolls and burns is one of the easiest and prettiest near Dunkeld. Only the plaintive call of the feathered denizens of the upland moor or the distant bleating of sheep may break the silence. Occasionally the deer may be seen bounding away, while from hill and moor blows the life-giving breeze, keen and exhilarating. Crossing the Dean’s Burn, the top of Newtyle is reached; it is known as the Teetotaller’s Seat, though history is silent as to the reason why. In a corner amongst the rocks on this hillside is the "Weaver’s Kirk," where in olden days several of that fraternity met on the Sabbath to discuss matters of deep moment. Right below is Dean’s Cross. Here was the site of one of the Crosses placed by a pious Dean for the benefit of those pilgrims who sought Dunkeld Cathedral, because at this point they obtained their first glimpse of that sacred edifice. Doubtless these same pilgrims offered up a prayer of fervent thanksgiving when they arrived at the Cross in safety, for on Stenton Rock, a mile behind, lived the notorious freebooter, Kemp, who lay in wait to relieve them of their intended offerings to the Church.

Another version of the name, however, is Danes’ Cross, which is explained by saying that the Danes crossed the Tay in this vicinity. In a deep pool, too, near this, it is alleged that witches were wont to find a watery grave. Along the base of the hill is a path or old church road between Clunie and Caputh, still called the People’s Walk. Winding round Haughend Farm it emerges on the Caputh road at what was once the hamlet of Woodhead, Only a few stones are left to testify- to the presence of a former "hamlet grey." In the burn beside it the inhabitants used to steep their lint. On the opposite side is a wood with little dells sloping towards the Tay. One of these in the spring is so yellow with primroses that the children loved to wander and "pluck the primrose gay." They named it "the primrose dell," but the little hands will touch the yellow petals there no more, for it is now enclosed ground and fenced off.

Returning to the Lowes path, Fungarth with its Golf Links comes into view. In old writings Fungarth has various spellings—Fonghort, Fongoarth, Fingorth or Fungorth are all used—and it boasted a Prebendary in connection with the Cathedral. One of the hollows is named the Highlandman’s Howe, and there the Dunkeld Games were once held.

Ere long the Loch o’ the Lowes comes into view, and is soon reached. It is about three miles in circumference and is very beautiful; a fine sheet of water nestling among the hills, a gem of beauty set in emerald, thickets of birch, alder and wild roses. Unfortunately, alders and hazel in their overgrown profusion threaten to obscure the views and hide the loch. The encroachment of such shrubs is also tending to destroy the botanical riches of the banks. Wild thyme, bog myrtle, meadow sweet and heather each perfumes the air in its season; the butterfly and other species of orchis are common, and blue lobelia, with other varieties of water plants, adorn the surface of the loch. Water birds are numerous; wild duck and water hen here nest, plovers, curlews, snipe and sandpipers abound. In the autumn brambles are plentiful on the banks and meadows near. At the east end of the loch a building once stood made useful for hunting operations. Here was the rendezvous for the boar hunt, and here the hounds were unleashed or " lowsed." Hence the name of

"Loch o’ the Lowes," although there is another explanation given—Loch o’ the Pikes—in this case "Lowes" being a corruption of lucius, Latin for pike, a name probably used by the priests of old.

There are several roads round about the loch. One, with fascinating peeps of the water, passes the Letter and the Lowes Farms, through the Pow, runs alongside Butterstone Loch and joins the Blairgowrie Road near Butterstone. The main road turns up by Catchpenny, Craig-en-taggart, Snaigow on to Clunie, where it, too, sends a branch to the Blairgowrie Road or continues to the end of Clunie Loch ( Map ). This latter loch is more pastoral in character than the Loch o' the Lowes, but it is quietly pretty and picturesque with its island and ancient Castle, once the "Key of the See of Dunkeld." it is also rich in historical associations. Before the Castle was built, 400 years ago, by Bishop Brown of Dunkeld, there was a stronghold occupied by a gang of robbers, who sacrilegiously carried off the fruits of the earth or pious offerings brought by parishioners from Alith to Dunkeld. The good Bishop succeeded in rooting them out, and used the Castle as a summer residence. Worn out with sorrow, sickness and the worry of controlling the stormy factions of the period, he died here in 1514.

The Castle was also the home, if not the birthplace, of the "Admirable Crichton," an account of whom is given in Chapter VI. Close to the loch is a large green mound called the Castle Hill, on which traditions says was erected the Summer Palace and Hunting Seat of Kenneth MacAlpin, first King of the Picts and Scots. The Danes were defeated by him in 845 in the neighbourhood.

Clunie is about four miles from Blairgowrie, the road passing the remainder of the lochs, there being nine altogether in the Stormont, which is a wide, fertile vale bordered by pastoral and also rugged hills. The name is said to mean "main battle or strife," and on this derivation is founded the idea that somewhere in the valley was fought the great battle between Romans and Britons.

Returning to Dunkeld by Forneth, the Laighwood and Butterstone, there are many objects of interest, amongst them the remains of Pictish dwellings. Just above Butterstone village is the Cloven Stone, cleft in two, an opening several inches wide between each. It closed by using a lever, each part fitting into the other, and weighs at least ten tons. From Butterstone, through the romantic ravine of the Den of Riechip, famed for botanical specimens, access is gained to the Grews’ Well and Ben-e-challie.

Butterstone House is a fine building on the right, and is noted as being the last place of residence in Scotland of the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone. The venerable statesman spent a month there in 1898 as the guest of Lord Armitstead. and expressed repeatedly his admiration of the beauty of the district, a favourite drive being that into Dunkeld, four miles distant.

The next place of interest is Cardney House, ( Map ) finely situated, with the rocky heights of Craig Mohr showing behind. This house occupies the site of an ancient hunting seat of the Kings of Scotland, the "Old Ha" or the "Kings’ Kitchen." The Loch of Craiglush is to the left, a charming sheet of water connected with the Loch o’ the Lowes by a canal. Soon after the Fungarth Braes appear, with the golf club-house perched in a delightful situation. A walk back to Dunkeld may either follow the course of the highway or, passing through Fungarth, descend abruptly into Dunkeld, both routes offering many picturesque and lovely glimpses of the surrounding scenery.

These walks, and others described in previous chapters, do not by any means exhaust the walks to be found in the district . They but give an indication of the variety offered. There are innumerable charming nooks, sheltered hollows, winding paths near and far which the ardent seeker may easily find and explore. The charm of Dunkeld largely lies in its diversity. Its scenic beauty has been recognised for ages and disputed by none. All who pass may see. Other places may have higher mountains, larger waterfalls or lochs and wider woods, but seldom in such a small compass is there to be found craggy hills and wooded heights, open moorlands and flower-bedecked woods, flowing rivers, placid lakes and roaring waterfalls. Then in Dunkeld itself there are reminders of ancient glories when "Sainted Columb first the Cross displayed and all Pictavia bowed," or "mitred priests adored in lordly state." Nor is there wanting evidence of past strife when "its ivy-clad Cathedral was reft of glory or Highland claymore and Lowland spear reddened in intestine fray."

These days are past, but memories remain and help to strengthen the hold which Dunkeld has on its sons and daughters who regard with pride its past history. Even when far away, they see in dreams that little Highland city, enthroned amongst hills on the banks of the Tay, and long to be there. In the language of the song, "In Exile" words and music by (G. K. Scott, Inver), they sigh:

"In my dreams I often wander

By Braan’s roaring, rocky stream,

Oft I gaze on Tay’ s calm grandeur,

But, alas! ‘tis but a dream!

Others feel the charm and attraction, too, both of its scenery and history, and so Dunkeld, once the capital of an ancient kingdom, can never lose its interest, nor cease to fascinate all lovers of Scotland’s hills and history.

Dunkeld an Ancient City
Elizabeth Stewart
Dunkeld, 1926

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