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Visit Killiecrankie
Killiecrankie
is one of the famous names of Scotland, renowned both for its
history and its scenery. The Pass of Killiecrankie lies three
miles north of Pitlochry, and for a mile threads the deep, steep,
thickly-wooded gorge of the Garry, between a spur of Ben Vrackie
(2757 feet) and Tenandry Hill, with the village at the north end.
Through this narrow winding defile, above the rushing river, run
the A 9 highway and the railway to Inverness.
About a mile beyond the Pass, to the north, was fought in 1689
the famous battle, between the forces of William of Orange, newly
brought to the throne, and the unseated and exiled James VII and
II. General Mackay, a veteran of the foreign wars, led the government
forces, and Graham of Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee, the Jacobites.
It is rather strange how popular a hero he has become in Scottish
minds--for he was scarcely popular at the time, his stern hand
at the putting down of the Covenanters, during the preceding 'Killing
Times', making his name execrated by many. However, his looks
and the well-known song between them, seem to have metamorphosed
him. 'Bonnie Dundee' won this battle, but fell in the moment of
victory, a stone marking the spot. His dying words are famed.
"How goes the day ?" he gasped, of a man named Johnson, who had
aided him down from his saddle. "Well for King James," the other
answered. "But I am sorry for your lordship." The dying Dundee
said, "If it is well for him, it matters the less for me" He did
not speak again. Two thousand of the government troops were killed
or captured, for a loss of 900 Highlanders. Nevertheless, with
Dundee's death, the victory was more or less fruitless, and that
Jacobite campaign soon ended.
The Pass, once a dangerous trap for travellers, and the key to
Atholl, is now a popular venue for visitors, and the National
Trust for Scotland, owners of the property, have an attractive
centre here. Towards the north end is the famed Soldier's Leap,
where one of Mackay's fleeing men managed to jump the foaming
cataract between two fearsome rocks, and so escape the pursuing
enemy.
Spanning the river to the south is Bridge of Garry, recently replaced
by a modern structure. This carries the road to Tummel and Rannoch.
Just over the bridge, a small and very steeply-climbing side-road
branches off to the right, to ascend high above the Pass on the
west side, passing the remotely but beautifully sited church and
manse of Tenandry. Although an ancient parish, the present church
was built only in 1836, with seating for 430-- an extraordinary
provision for a place of worship with no centre of population
for miles around. The graveyard is most attractively carved out
of the steep birchwoods.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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