Tour
Scotland, Glen Clova
South-east
of the Cairngorms, across the river Dee, past Braemar, across
the Balmoral Forest and over and below
Lochnagar (3.786 feet). we come to Glen Clova. which follows the
South Esk river to Cortachy and Strathmore. The glen is notable
for its magniticent rock scenery
and for its many rare shrubs and ferns.
The
South Esk rises on the slopes around Fafernie (3,274 feet) and
reaches the sea at Montrose. The southern
approaches to the glen are well served by the B.955 road which
loops up from Cortachy, running along both banks of the river
as far as Clova village. On the northern bank of the river, just
beyond this hamlet, are the remains of an old castle, once the
seat of the Ogilvies.
A
lesser road runs up the glen on the north side of the river as
far as Braedownie and here the glen divides
into a V-shaped fork with the line of the South Esk coming down
from the north above Bachnagairn and the line of the White Water
falling from the heights of Tolmount (3,145 feet) to the west.
It
is along this latter valley that the track passes into the gorge
between Craig Mellon and Craig Rennet before turning away to mount
the slopes which skirt around Tolmount itself. Known as Jock’s
Road, this is the old sheep-herders track from the northern Highlands
and if
followed up breasts the top of the climb between the Cairn of
Claise and Fafernie and then plunges down again into the valley
of Glen Callater with its lovely little loch. At the northern
end of Loch Callater the roadway proper
recommences after a gap of twelve miles and follows the river
valley down into Glen Clunie and on to Braemar.
To
the south-west of Jock’s road rises the series of mountains
that overlook Devil’s Elbow and the Cairnwell
road from their lofty western faces, Carn an Tuirc (3,340 feet)
Glas Maol (3,502 feet) and Carn Ait (2,824 feet). An eastern spur
of Glas Maol is Monega Hill (2,917 feet) which overlooks Shielin
at the head of Glen Isla.
The
river Muick rises on Cairn Taggart (3,430 feet) to flow east through
Dubh Loch and Loch Muick before
turning north down Glen Muick to join the Dee near Ballater. This
is an area beloved and made famous by Queen Victoria, who spent
many happy times exploring the mountains and glens beyond the
Balmoral Forest. On the shores of Loch Muick in 1869 the shooting
lodge of
Glas-Ailt was built for her use. She recorded her experiences
in her Journal of Our Life in Scotland and it was her affection
for the Highlands that did so much to stimulate tourist interest
in Scotland in later years.
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