Notes On Edinburgh

Tour Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle, perched on its strategic site on Castle Rock. is impressive from all sides. The silhouette of the castle figures prominently on the skyline of most views of the city, and the castle's role has been of paramount importance throughout the city's history.

Royal residence to military fortress
As early as the 11th Century the buildings atop Castle Rock were favoured as a residence by royalty, in particular by Margaret, the queen of Malcolm III, and her sons. She in fact died here in 1093 shortly after hearing of the loss of both her liege lord and eldest son at Alnwick.

The castle subsequently alternated between Scottish and English forces and in 1313 suffered demolition by the Scots. In the late 14th Century, Bruce's son, David II, built a tower, of which there are no visible remains, on the site of the Half Moon Battery. The infamous Black Dinner of 1440 resulted in the execution of the two young Douglas brothers in the presence of their 10-year-old sovereign, James II, in an attempt to quell Douglas power. James II was born, crowned, married and buried in Edinburgh but it was his son James III who formally recognised the city as his capital. In the 16th Century Regent Morton did much to strengthen the castle's defences which suffered again during Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange's stout defence (1573) in the name of Mary, Queen of Scots. The end result was prompt execution for Grange and repairs and rebuilding to the castle. In the 1650s Cromwell's troops took over and thus began the castle's new role as a garrison. The 18th Century saw two Jacobite attacks, the last by Bonnie Prince Charlie in person from his headquarters at the other end of the Royal Mile. The buildings we see today are basically those which have resulted from the castle's role as a military garrison in recent centuries.

Esplanade
Created as a spacious parade ground in the 18th Century, the esplanade is the setting for the Festival's most popular event, the Military Tattoo, when the floodlit castle acts as backdrop. Before entering, note two of the castle's most imposing features from among the tiers of buildings, the appropriately named Half Moon Battery and the Palace Block towering up behind to the left.

Gatehouse
Beyond the ditch, started in the 1650s by Cromwell's troops, is the gatehouse, built as a suitably imposing entrance in the 19C. Two national heroes, Bruce and Wallace flank the entrance. Once through, the massive walls of the Half Moon Battery loom up ahead. These demarcate the line of the original outer defences. A plaque on the left, commemorates Kirkcaldy of Grange's stoic defence of 1573.

Portcullis Gate
The lower part, dating from Regent Morton's 1570s fortifications, has decorative features including Morton's coat of arms, while the upper part is a 19th Century addition. Further up, the two batteries, Argyle and Mill's Mount, both afford excellent views of Princes Street and the New Town. The daily one o'clock salute is fired from the upper battery. Round to the left, on the right is the Governor's House (1742), with adjoining wings for the Master Gunner and Store-Keeper. The imposing building behind is the 1790s New Barracks for the castle garrison.

Royal Scots Regimental Museum
The Royal Regiment is the oldest and most senior regiment of the British Army. Raised on 28 March 1633. the unit originally served under King Louis XIII of France where it earned the nickname of "Pontius Pilate's Bodyguard". The regiment was finally recalled to Britain in 1676; two rooms of exhibits trace the regiment's subsequent history.

Military Prison
These cells were built in the 1840s.

Vaults
Two levels of great vaulted chambers, situated under the Crown Square buildings, housed French and American prisoners in the 18C and 19C. In the end chamber stands the 500-year-old siege cannon, Mons Meg, commissioned by the Duke of Burgundy and forged in 1449 at Mons in Hainaut, it was given eight years later to his nephew James II. Mons Meg is said to have served at Crooks-ton (1489), Dumbarton (1489) and Norham Castles (1497) and even to have spent time in the Tower of London. Sir Walter Scott petitioned for its return and in 1829 the huge medieval cannon was returned to Edinburgh.

Foog's Gate
The original entrance to the upper area of the castle was by stairs (now the Lang Stairs) climbing from beside the Portcullis Gate. With the levelling off of the rest of the Rock, this new entrance was built on the west side.

St Margaret's Chapel
The small rectangular building on the left incorporates remnants of the castle's oldest structure, and perhaps even Edinburgh's. This 12th Century chapel is dedicated to Malcolm III's Queen Margaret. Once surrounded by other buildings it served various purposes until the mid 19th Century when its original role was revealed and restoration ensued. Inside, the chancel arch is Norman in inspiration with its cushion capitals and chevron decoration. The terrace in front offers an extensive panorama of northern Edinburgh, in particular Princes Street and the gardens, and the geometric pattern of the New Town.

Half Moon Battery
The battery was built following the 1573 siege, which saw the destruction of David II's tower house. From here the strategic importance of the original tower with its command of castle approaches and entrance is evident. The heart of the medieval fortress and one-time royal residence is marked by Crown Square. Of the four buildings overlooking the square today only the southern and eastern ranges are of historic interest.

Scottish National War Memorial
In the 1920s Robert Lorlmer undertook the task of converting a mid-18C building into Scotland's War Memorial. The exterior, with a strong resemblance to the palace part of Stirling Castle, is in harmony with the earlier buildings. The interior achieves a suitable atmosphere of dignity and reverence to honour those who served. Wartime scenes are the subject of the attractive stained-glass round-headed windows by Douglas Strachan. The low reliefs depict the fighting men and other participants in the struggle. A casket containing the names of the fallen stands in the apse.

Scottish United Services Museum
East gallery in Palace Block. This section of the museum houses displays of uniforms, medals, badges. Colours and weapons illustrating the history of the Scottish regiments of the British Army.

Great Hall
The hall built in the late 15th Century for James IV succeeded a series of earlier buildings. The chief attraction of this spacious apartment intended for great occasions is the hammerbeam roof which can be fully appreciated since the 19th Century restoration. Boards and beams are attractively painted and reward inspection.

Palace Block
This range, which dates from the 15th Century, contained the royal apartments overlooking the old town. The interior was remodelled for James VI's only return visit to Scotland in 1617. Enter by the door nearest the Great Hall range. A room on the right has displays on excavations at Mill's Mount dating back to the Iron Age. Straight ahead, Queen Mary's Room is hung with family portraits of her son James VI, her grandson Charles I, her great-grandsons Charles II and James II, and her first husband Francis II. There is also a plaster cast from Mary's tomb effigy at Westminster Abbey. The adjoining small chamber, with its panelling and timber ceiling, is the room where James VI was born in 1566. The decoration dates from the 1617 refurbishing. Once in the square again, the doorway in the staircase tower leads to the Crown Chamber on the first floor where the Honours of Scotland are displayed. Following the Union of Parliaments in 1707, they were sealed up in this chamber and it was on Sir Walter Scott's initiative that they were rediscovered. Although of unknown age. the pearl and gem encrusted crown is Britain's only pre-Restoration crown to have escaped being melted down by Cromwell. The sceptre and sword were gifts from two Popes to the Renaissance prince, James IV, the former from the Borgia Pope, Alexander VI (1492-1503), and the latter from his successor, Pope Julius 11(1503-13), a great patron of the arts. Pride of place is also given to the Stone of Destiny, the ancient symbol of Celtic kingship, which was returned to Scotland in 1996 after 700 years under the Coronation Chair at Westminster Abbey. The other rooms (East Gallery) contain further displays on the Royal Navy, Royal Air Force. Scotland's sole cavalry regiment, the Royal Scots Greys, and the yeomanry regiments.

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