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Tour East Neuk of Fife
The
East Neuk, or corner, is one of the main attractions of Fife.
It is a stretch of coastline dotted with a series of delightful
fishing villages, each clustered around its harbour. The villages
are a joy to discover with their wealth of vernacular architecture.
This is the area of Scotland in which I was raised, in the old
fishing village of Cellardyke, often referred to as East Anstruther,
but not by me, for I am "Dyker" through and through.
The
golden fringe
As
early as the 11th Century Fife was the very hub of the Scottish
nation, with Dunfermline as the political and St
Andrews as the ecclesiastical centres. The villages flourished
as active trading ports with the Hanseatic League and the Low
Countries. King James VI described Fife as "a beggar's mantle
with a fringe of gold". It was the royal burghs along the coast,
with their profitable activities of trading, fishing and smuggling,
which were the "fringe of gold". With
the development of the trans-Atlantic routes, the villages concentrated
on fishing.
Era
of the China Tea Clippers
In
those heroic days of the China tea trade prior to the opening
of the Suez Canal, every day counted. Two masters of these magnificent
vessels came from East Neuk ports: Captain
Alexander Rodger (1802-77) and Captain Keay. The latter was
skipper of the Ariel which held the all-time sailing ship record
of 83 days from Gravesend to Hong Kong. He is also famous for
his race with Rodger's Taeping.
Crail
This
busy resort is the most attractive burgh. The older heart of the
burgh is clustered down by the harbour while the upper town is
altogether more spacious.
Upper
Crail
Standing
alone in a prominent position overlooking the spacious market
place, the tolbooth (1598), a tiered tower, is graced by an attractively
shaped belfry. The weather vane. a gilded capon (dried haddock),
is a reminder that capons were the town's staple export. Behind
the tolbooth at nos 62-64 is a small museum which gives an insight
into the burgh's history, its main buildings and activities. The
tree-lined Marketgate is bordered by elegant two-and three-storey
dwellings. Of particular note are nos 30 and 44 on the south side
and Auld House (16th Century) and Kirkmay House (early 19th Century)
opposite. The "Blue Stone" just outside the churchyard on the
left is said to have been thrown by the devil from the Isle of
May in an attempt to destroy the church.
Old
Centre
Sloping
down to the harbour, Shoregate is bordered by an attractive group
of cottages (nos 22-28). Crab and lobster boats still use the
inner harbour with its attractive stonework. On the waterfront
is the three-storey Customs House (no 35). Note the boat carving
on the pend lintel. The adjoining group of buildings surround
a paved courtyard. On the way up, note no 32 Castle Street and
the delightful 18C no 1 Rose Wynd with its forestair and attractive
door surround.
Anstruther
and Cellardyke
( where I was raised )
This linear settlement includes the once independent communities
of Cellardyke, Anstruther Easter and Anstruther Wester. There
is still some creel-fishing (for lobster and crab) and white fish
activity from Anstruther, but most of the fishermen now operate
from Pittenweem, a mile to the west, which is home to the East
Neuk fishing fleet of trawlers, seiners and creel boats. On the
shore-front, The Scottish
Fisheries Museum is one of the best Museums in Scotland.
Boat
trips to the Isle of May
Created
a nature reserve in 1956, the island has an important breeding
population of seabirds (puffins, kittiwakes. guillemots. shags,
eider ducks, razorbills and fulmars). Scotland's first lighthouse
(1630s) is still visible alongside its 19C successor. The beacon
consisted of coals burning in the rooftop grate.
Pittenweem
This
burgh is once again on two levels. Kellie Lodge (private) in the
High Street is the 16C town house of the Earls of Kellie from
Kellie Castle. Corbelled,
pantiled and crow-stepped, it is an excellent example of the vernacular
style.
St
Fillan's Cave
Cave
and Holy Well, is said to have been the sanctuary of the 7C Christian
missionary Fillan. Many wynds down to the harbour which is today
Fife's busiest fishing port. Of particular interest on the waterfront
are The Gyles at the east end and no 18 East Shore, a three-storeyed
building with its Dutch-style gable.
St
Monans
The
village is tightly packed around its small harbour. Wynds and
closes lead off into the usual maze of lanes, back alleys and
yards; a smuggler's paradise. The church was probably begun in
the 11 C by Queen Margaret. A large part of it is 13th Century
and the choir was rebuilt by King David II in 1346. Inside, look
for the hanging ship, the coats of arms and the painted panel
from the laird's loft, and the groined stone roof.
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To A Few Favorite Scottish Places
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