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Elgin
The
attractive town of Elgin stands on the banks of the Lossie. The
town is the administrative centre for the Moray district. The
medieval plan has been preserved and the main street links its
famous cathedral to the former site of the castle, the two mainstays
of a medieval burgh.
Elgin
Cathedral
The
Catherdal is claimed by many to have been the most beautiful in
Scotland. Today the biscuit-coloured ruins still stand, majestic,
evocative and rich in style, characteristic of the 13th Century,
a period of intensive church building. The creation of the diocese
dated back to 1120 when territorially it extended over the ancient
province of Moray. The Celtic churches of Kinneddar, Birnie and
Spynie had served as episcopal seats prior to the final move in
1224 to the Church of the Holy Trinity at Elgin. Following fire
damage in 1270, a scheme of enlargement was undertaken comprising
the completion of double aisles to the nave. the extension of
the choir and the addition of a chapter-house.
Both
the town and the cathedral suffered ignominious destruction in
1390 at the hands of the Wolf of Badenoch. otherwise known as
Alexander Stewart, the second son of King Robert II. Although
duly repaired, the cathedral suffered gradual deterioration after
the Reformation. This was in part due to the fact that it was
no longer in use as a place of worship and also due to the protracted
struggle over the ownership of church property after the Reformation.
In 1711 the collapse of the central tower wreaked much damage
and the ruins became a quarry for building materials. Conservation
began in the early 19th Century.
The
buildings
Between
the buttressed twin towers of the west front is a deeply recessed
portal with large windows above. Intricate vine and acorn carving
frames the doorways. On the internal face is an attractive arcade
marking the passageway between the towers at first floor level.
The
view of the town from the top of the south tower (134 steps) is
screened by the trees of Cooper Park. although the Duke of Gordon
can be seen on his column on Lady Hill. The transepts are the
oldest parts. The two figures in the south aisle originally adorned
the outer walls of the central tower. The east end is an impressive
arrangement of two rows of five lancets crowned by a rose window.
The piers of the choir have unusual spire-like terminations. The
octagonal 13th Century chapter-house was reconstructed in the
15th Century when it was provided with elaborately rich vaulting
and carved bosses. The stone benching is discontinued for the
five canopied seats. Standing within the former cathedral precincts
are Pann's Port. a former gateway and in the corner of Cooper
Park, the ruins of one of the manses, miscalled the Bishop's House.
Elgin
Museum
This
purpose-built Italianate building (1843) houses the local history
museum. Items of particular interest are the local fossil fish
and reptiles and incised Pictish stones, especially the Burghead
Bulls.
High
Street
Wynds
and pends link the main thoroughfare to the north and south. Braco's
Banking House, marked by street-level arcades, was the banking
house of William Duff of Dipple. His son William Duff of Braco
and later Earl of Fife Invested the accumulated fortune in the
building of Duff House. Further along on the right as the street
widens is a 17th Century tower, now offices. The handsome Church
of St Giles designed in the classical style by the Aberdonian,
Archibald Simpson, is greatly enhanced by its mid-street site.
The steepled tower and fluted columned portico dominate the facades.
Lady Hill at the far end of the street was the site of the medieval
castle. Today it is dominated by the monument to the last Duke
of Gordon (d 1836) with his Grace above.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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