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Dunfermline,
Scotland

Dunfermline,
(Gaelic, the fort on the crooked linn ), is a royal burgh in Fife.
It is situated on high ground just 3 miles from the shore of the
Firth of Forth. The town is intersected from north to south by
Pittencrieff Glen, a deep, picturesque and tortuous ravine, from
which the town derives its name and at the bottom of which flows
Lyne Burn.
The
history of Dunfermline goes back to a remote period, for the early
Celtic monks known as Culdees had an establishment here; but its
fame and prosperity date from the marriage of Malcolm Canmore
and his queen Margaret, which was solemnized in the town in 1070.
The king then lived in a tower on a mound surrounded on three
sides by the glen. A fragment of this castle still exists in Pittencrieff
Park, a little west of the later palace. Under the influence of
Queen Margaret in 1075 the foundations were laid of the Benedictine
priory, which was raised to the rank of an abbey by David I. Robert
Bruce gave the town its charter in 1322.
In the 18th
century Dunfermline impressed Daniel Defoe as showing the full
perfection of decay, but it became one of the most prosperous
towns in Scotland. Its staple industry was the manufacture of
table linen. The weaving of damask was introduced in 1718 by James
Blake, who had learned the secret of the process in the workshops
at Drumsheugh near Edinburgh, to which he gained admittance by
feigning idiocy; and since that date the linen trade has advanced
by leaps and bounds, much of the success being due to the beautiful
designs produced by the manufacturers.
Among other
industries that contributed to the welfare of the town were dyeing
and bleaching, brass and iron founding, tanning, machine-making,
brewing and distilling, milling, rope-making and the making of
soap and candles, while the collieries in the immediate vicinity
were numerous and flourishing.
The town is
well supplied with interesting buildings. Besides the New Abbey
church, the United Free church in Queen Anne Street founded by
Ralph Erskine, and the Gillespie church, named after Thomas Gillespie
(1708-1774), another leader of the Secession movement, possess
some historical importance. Erskine is commemorated by a statue
in front of his church and a sarcophagus over his grave in the
abbey churchyard; Gillespie by a marble tablet on the wall above
his resting-place within the abbey. The Corporation buildings,
a blend of the Scots Baronial and French Gothic styles, contain
busts of several Scottish sovereigns a statue of Robert Burns,
and Sir Noel Patons painting of the Spirit of Religion. Other
structures are the County buildings, the Public, St Margarets,
Music and Carnegie halls, the last in the Tudor style, Carnegie
public baths, high school (founded in 1560), school of science
and art, and two hospitals. Several distinguished men have been
associated with Dunfermline. Robert Henryson (143oI 506), the
poet, was long one of its schoolmasters. John Row (1568-1646),
the Church historian, held the living of Carnock, 3 m. to the
E., and David Ferguson (d. 1598) who made the first collection
of Scottish proverbs (not published till 1641), was parish minister;
Robert Gilfillan (1798-1850), the poet, and Sir Joseph Noel Paton
(1821-1901), painter and poetwhose father was a designer of patterns
for the damask tradewere all born here. Andrew Carnegie (b. 1837),
however, is in a sense the most celebrated of all her sons, as
he is certainly her greatest benefactor. He gave to his birthplace
the free library and public baths, and, in 1903, the estate of
Pittencrieff Park and Glen.
Dunfermline
Abbey is one of the most important remains in Scotland. Excepting
Iona it has received more of Caledonias royal dead than any other
place in the kingdom. Within its precincts were buried Queen Margaret
and Malcolm Canmore; their sons Edgar and Alexander I., with his
queen; David I. and his two queens; Malcolm IV.; Alexander III.,
with his first wife and their sons David and Alexander; Robert
Bruce, with his queen Elizabeth and their daughter Matilda; and
Annabella Drummond, wife of Robert III. and mother of James I.
Bruces heart rests in Melrose, but his bones lie in Dunfermline
Abbey, where (after the discovery of the skeleton in 1818) they
wer~ reinterred with fitting pomp below the pulpit of the New
church. In 1891 the pulpit was moved back and a monumental brass
inserted in the floor to indicate the royal vault. The tomb of
St Margaret and Malcolm, within the ruined walls of the Lady chapel,
was restored and enclosed by command of Queen Victoria. During
the winter of 1303 the court of Edward I. was held in the abbey,
and on his departure next year most of the buildings were burned.
When the Reformers attacked the abbey church in March 1560, they
spared the nave, which served as the parish church till the 19th
century, and now forms the vestibule of the New church. This edifice,
in the Perpendicular style, opened for public worship in 1821,
occupies the site of the ancient chancel and transepts, though
differing in style and proportions from the original structure.
The old building was a fine example of simple and massive Norman,
as the nave testifies, and has a beautiful doorway in its west
front. Another rich Norman doorway was exposed in the south wall
in 1903, when masons were cutting a site for the memorial to the
soldiers who had fallen in the South African War. A new site was
found for this monument in order that the ancient and beautiful
entrance might be preserved.
Of the monastery
there still remains the south wall of the refectory, with a fine
window. The palace, a favorite residence of many of the kings,
occupying a picturesque position near the ravine, was of considerable
size, judging from the south-west wall, which is all that is left
of it. Here James IV., James V. and James VI. spent much of their
time, and within its walls were born three of James VI.s childrenCharles
I., Robert and Elizabeth. After Charles I. was crowned he paid
a short visit to his birthplace, but the last royal tenant of
the palace was Charles II., who occupied it just before the battle
of Pitreavie (20th of July 1650), which took place 3 miles to
the south-west, and here also he signed the National League and
Covenant.
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