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Colinsburgh
Map
of this area
The Earl's Village
The village of Colinsburgh is one straight street. Ranged austerely
on each side of the road are cottages whose doors open on to the
pavements and whose flat faces give no hint of the long and pleasant
gardens behind them. There is an old-fashioned inn and a sprinkle
of shops. That is about all. But we stop here to listen to the
story of the man who built Colinsburgh, the Earl whose name it
bears.
Colin, third Earl of Balcarres. His Colinsburgh, at the eastern
end of which can be seen the entrance to the park of Balcarres,
was founded in 1705: only a couple of centuries ago, so his village
is still sound and solid. Yet about Colin and his name hangs an
aura, a feeling that all told of him is legend rather than fact,
and even the solid presence of the cottages he built cannot make
it seem authentic history. Perhaps this is so because he was so
much himself the romantic. The nobleman, the laird, devoted to
lost but ever appealing causes, altogether the character beloved
in Scottish history. Even as an old man that devotion summoned
him again to battle, and our last glimpse of him is one in which
sorrow and happiness are strangely mingled, an old man skating
on a loch under the eye of an English guard. An old man, his cause
forever lost, but who had found in age the tranquillity, the indifference
that age must bring. But our story of Colin had best begin in
his youth when the young Scots nobleman, already pledged to the
Stuart cause, was at the court of King Charles II.
Here he met his first love, Mauritia de Nassau. The wedding was
arranged. On the morning appointed for this brilliant ceremony
Mauritia appeared at church. But no bridegroom awaited her there.
A messenger was sent to seek him. Colin, in gown and slippers,
was calmly breakfasting: he had forgotten all about his appoint-ment.
He hurried to the church. And now he had forgotten the ring. A
friend quickly took a ring from his finger and passed it to the
bridegroom. Colin put the ring on the bride's finger. She glanced
at it and then fainted. From her hand a death's head had grinned
at her. The ring borrowed so hurriedly was a mourning ring decorated
with a skull. The bride recovered and the guests comforted her,
but she declared that she would die within twelve months, and
this doleful prophecy came true.
Colin had other loves, other wives, but constant was his devotion
to the Stuart cause. His service to it took him into exile for
seven years, from 1693 to 1700. When he returned he turned to
the tending of the estate, and in 1705 he founded his village
of Colinsburgh to house his disbanded soldiers. But in 1715 the
Stuart call came again. He was an old man now, but the cause of
his youth was still dear to him. He joined in the Rebellion and,
at its collapse, faced sentence. It was a comparatively mild one,
for the Duke of Marlborough in-tervened on his behalf, and Colin
was ordered to be confined to his home of Balcarres, and a dragoon
was appointed to be his guard. Thus we come to that last picture
of Colin, third Earl of Balcarres. On a winter morning skating
on nearby Kilconquhar Loch, with the dragoon standing guard.
When we leave Colinsburgh on the eastward road we come, after
passing the southern entrances to Balcarres, to a crossroads at
which, on the south-east corner of Balcarres Park, stands a pleasant
cottage. This cottage is now referred to as "Auld Robin's Gray's
cottage", although the shepherd's home was actually deeper in
the park behind this cottage and has disappeared. The ballad which
im-mortalised the shepherd's name was written at Balcarres in
1771 by Lady Anne Lindsay.
From viewpoints along the road can occasionally be glimpsed in
the grounds of Balcarres a ruinous tower of apparently great age.
The tower is neither ancient nor ruined, but is a "folly" built
in the last century on the height known as Balcarres Craig, and
is merely a fanciful attempt to create a romantically situated
ivy-cloaked ruin.
On the road from Colinsburgh to Cupar is the village of Largoward,
from which can be seen views strangely characteristic of the East
Neuk of Fife, long, level landscapes of low, rolling hills, particularly
charming when seen with the pale tints of early Spring. Prom this
region, now so quiet and agricultural, coal was taken to Falkland
Palace when James VI was living there.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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