Isle of Arran
Map of this area

The largest of the Clyde islands, with an area of 165sq miles, measures 20 miles long and 10 miles wide. "Scotland in miniature", the island is cut in two by the Highland Boundary Fault. An island of contrasts, the mountainous northern part. with Goat Fell (2,866ft-874m) the highest peak, has deep valleys and moorland while the southern half has more typically Lowland scenery. Around the coast, sheltered sandy bays, rugged cliffs and small creeks alternate. Sheltered by the arm of the Kintyre Peninsula, the island has a particularly mild climate.

Prehistory

The heritage of prehistoric times is particularly rich with the island set on the main migration route up the western seaboard. The long cairn collective tombs of the Neolithic agriculturalists, standing stone circles of the Bronze Age (Machrie Moor) and forts of the Iron Age are all to be found on Arran.

Arran today

The economy is essentially based on agriculture with large sheep runs on the moorland areas and arable farming or dairying restricted to the improved areas of valleys and coastal fringes. Forestry is on the increase on the east coast but the main industry is undoubtedly tourism, exploiting the isle's natural assets: its scenic beauty and its changelessness. Facilities for the visitor include golf. cycle and boat hiring, pony trekking, rock climbing, hill and ridge walking, fishing, sea angling. yachting, water skiing and fine sandy beaches with safe bathing.

Brodick Castle

On approaching the isle by steamer one of the first things the visitor can pick out against the towering backdrop of Goat Fell is the red sandstone mass of Brodick Castle, overlooking the bay. In a grand yet homely setting are displayed fine silver. porcelain and painting collections, the heirlooms of Hamilton generations. Added to this are the splendours and beauty of an outstanding rhododendron garden.

The castle was a stronghold from earliest times, soon became royal and from 1503 Hamilton property, when the 2nd Lord Hamilton inherited the earldom of Arran. Following the 2nd Duke's death at Worcester (1652). Cromwellian troops occupied the castle and extended it westwards. In 1844. a further extension, complete with a four-storey tower, all in the baronial style, was made by the ageing Gillespie Graham (1776-1855).

In the Hall and first floor staircase landing we meet many of those responsible for the Brodick we see today. Busts portray William the IIth Duke and Princess Marie of Baden who decided to make Brodick their home and for whom Gillespie designed the 19C extensions and decorations, and their son the 12th Duke, gambler, racing man and collector of the many sporting items. Portraits on the landing showthe 10th Duke and his Duchess. Susan Beckford, who assembled many of the exquisite treasures now on display. The first and more intimate suite of rooms was that of the Duchess of Montrose. heiress of the 12th Duke. who made it her life's work to preserve the house and its collections which are now in the care of the National Trust for Scotland. The dressing room provides the setting for the fan collection, two lovely 18C marquetry pieces, one Dutch and one English (Boudoir), and Gainsborough landscape sketches (Boudoir). The Boudoir Landing introduces the Beckford link. with William Beckford portrayed on his deathbed (Willes Maddox) and a Turner watercolour of his home Fonthill Abbey (see Michelin Green Guide, The West Country of England). David Teniers' The Temptations of St Anthony, to the left of the cabinet, well rewards a careful study. The cabinet itself is a treasure trove of exquisite art objects: ivories, porcelain, glass... The set of late-18C Blackamoor stools is Venetian.

In the Drawing-Room the richness of the gilded heraldic ceiling matches that of the contents. Notable paintings include two small Watteaus. a Clouet portrait and the late Duchess of Montrose by de Laszlo. A pair of goose tureens, masterpieces of late-18C Chinese art (Chien Lung), graces the 18C Italian commodes Thistle Cup (Edinburgh 1692) between the windows. On display in the two following rooms, part of the Cromwellian extension, are many of the sporting pictures including Herring's Dirtiest Derby (1844) and Reinagle's A Prize Fight, and items from Brodick's magnificent silver collection, in particular a pair of 17C Scottish thistle cups and the wall sconces.

The slope down to Brodick Bay is the setting for another of Brodick's gems, justly of international repute, the two beautiful gardens. Firstly comes the colour and formality of the 1710 walled garden with beyond, the 65-acre woodland garden, a creation of the late Duchess and her son-in-law, and now considered one of the finest rhododendron gardens of its kind (main display April to mid-June.). The gardens form part of Brodick Country Park which provides many facilities for visitors.

Brodick

With its sandy beach and many hotels and boarding houses, is the isle's largest resort and the port of call for the ferry.

Rosaburn Heritage Museum

One mile out of Brodick on the Lochranza road. Visit the blacksmith's shop. milk house, cottage furnished in late-19C and early-20C styles, and exhibition area with displays of local social history, geology and archeology. The last mentioned is a must for those who intend visiting the isle's many prehistoric sites. Note the Bronze Age cist 3 500 years old.

Corrie

This former fishing hamlet consisting of a line of whitewashed cottages makes a convenient starting point for ridge walkers and mountaineers.

Sannox Bay

Another sheltered sandy stretch. The road moves inland, up Glen Sannox climbing to higher, bleaker moorland scenery in the shadow of the surrounding peaks and crests. Once over the watershed, the road drops steeply towards Lochranza.

Lochranza

Once an active herring-fishing village and port of call for the Clyde steamers, this rather scattered community has many a holiday home. The roofless ruin of 16C Lochranza Castle 0 stands on a spitjutting out into Loch Ranza. In summer a ferry operates between Lochranza and Claonaig on the Kintyre Peninsula. Once round the point the view extends over Kilbrannan Sound to the Kintyre coast. The road becomes more twisting but remains close to the shore. Beyond is the shingle beach of Catacol Bay. Farming country appears again in the vicinity of Dougarie.

Machrle Moor Stone Circles

Inland off the main road. The relatively flat and of the moor backed by the mountains makes an impressive setting for the intriguing remnants of these stone circles. The five circles, all fragmentary, were the work of a Bronze Age people who supplanted the Neolithic culture. Their exact purpose remains unsure: sepulchral or ritualistic? Four of the five had associated short cist burials and in two cases accompanying food vessels, which have been attributed to the period 1650-1500 BC (Stonehenge c 2800-1550 BC). The stones of differing dimensions are variously of granite or Old Red Sandstone.

Blackwaterfoot

At the mouth of a valley of the same name. overlooks Drumadoon Bay. The road continues in corniche fashion, high above the shore, before moving inland as it swings round the southern end of the isle. Looming on the horizon is the rounded shape of AilsaCraig, otherwise know as "Paddy's milestone". The islet is famed for its granite, in particular the blue hone. favoured for the making of curling stones.

Kilmory

The creamery produces Arran Dunlop cheese. Just offshore lies Pladda with its lighthouse.

Whiting Bay

This is another popular resort. Holy Island comes into view, before the road rounds to Lamlash Bay affording a classic view of Brodick Castle on the north shore of Brodick Bay dominated by Goat Fell.

Lamlash Bay

The supposed anchorage for King Haakon and his Viking fleet prior to the Battle of Largs in 1263, is now the headquarters of Arran Yacht Club.

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