Tour
Scotland, An Teallach
Located
on the western edge of Ross and Cromarty near Dundonnell, a small
village which stands at the head of little Loch Broom, An Teallach
is a magnificent crescent-shaped ridge with fourteen peaks in
an impressive array of rocky splendour. They provide climbers
with a daunting series of tests and they also comprise one of
the most impressive ridge walks in the British Isles.
The
tallest peak has a height of 3,483 feet. Its great bulk and the
other peaks clustered around it, loom large above the Dundonnell
forest and dominate the scattered settlements below. The upper
slopes are bare of vegetation except for patches of sea-thrift
found clinging
precariously to them.
The
road that winds its way north from Dundonnell to Ullapool, carves
its way up through the forest and away from the coast to a height
of 1.060 feet, passing close to the hill loch, Lochhaidh Bhroain,
the origin of the river Broom, before dropping again to the north
bank of Loch Broom. Known as ‘Destitution’ or ‘Desolation’
Road, it was constructed by hungry crofters during the great potato
famine of 1846-7, when their only wages were handouts of food.
Ullapool
is a most attractive little fishing town with an excellent harbour.
It is blessed with one of the lowest rainfalls on the west coast.
Its name, of Norse derivation, means Ulli’s homestead. It
was developed in 1788 when the British Fishery Society made it
a centre for herring and cod fishing. After a decline, Ullapool
has now revived and become an ideal tourist centre. There is excellent
salmon fishing in the river and ample sea fishing in the loch
itself. A delightful feature of the town is that its street names
are in Gaelic as well as in English.
Gruinard
Bay is beautiful and beyond it lie the lovely Summer Isles, some
of which can be visited by motor boat from the mainland. Tanera
More, Priest Island and Horse Island were all once inhabited but
now their residents are sheep, seals and sea-birds. The coastal
road through Achiltibuie to Lochinver by-passes the lonely peak
of An Stac, commonly known as Stac Polly,
guarding the northern shore of Loch Lurgain. This isolated feature
is named after the river Polly, or Pollaidh, meaning river of
pools.
To
the south-east of An Teallach lies Braemore House and below is
the huge gorge of Corrieshalloch, two hundred feet deep and a
mile long, spanned by a
suspension bridge. In the distance can be seen the towering bulks
of Sgurr Mor (3,637 feet) and Beinn Dearg (3,547 feet) with the
winding road to Inverness snaking between them, a road that can
be blocked by snow even in April and May. Here are the breathtaking
Falls of
Measach which plunge into the head of the gorge. These falls can
be reached by wooded paths from the uspension
bridge.
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